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John Deere 350 3 Point Hitch Sickle Bar Mower Hay Lawn For Sale

John Deere 350 3 Point Hitch Sickle Bar Mower Hay Lawn

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John Deere 350 3 Point Hitch Sickle Bar Mower Hay Lawn:

You are offerding on aJohn Deere 350sickle mower with a 7' bar. There is not much to say about this one. It is almost brand new and has been shedded since the day it was new. It is in 100% ready to go condition. The sickle, guards, hold downs, belt, u-joints, and basically anything that is something that wears out, are same as brand new. I take advantage of a machine like this when I get one in and mow my banks and anything that requiresa lot of angle out of the bar.I have a bank that runs the entire length of my property. I put my right side tires in the ditch and the bar stands up at about a fourty five degree angle and follows that bank perfectly. This is about the only way you can mow a bank like this. This is what you call a balanced head machine, which means that it will cut in any position. It is in shape and is absolutely ready to go, right now.

If you are looking at this mower, you might have already been to your local dealership and found that they are not scared to ask $3500 for one similar to this. That is, if you could ever find one this nice. I have been selling these for a long time and have only had the chance to sell one or two that were in this kind of shape. THAT IS THE ORIGINAL PAINT! I have personally looked this machine over, used it, tried to find anything that I didn't like about it, and I can't. I keep about ten or twelve feet on each side of my lane and about five acres mowed down real nice. Ilet itgrow up to about five to seveninches tall and I cut it down to aboutthree inches tall with these mowers. I am pointing this out because if you have ever used a sickle mower, you know that it is not an easy task to get one to cut grass that is only five inches tall. THIS PARTICULAR MOWER CUTS VERY WELL.It will cut your yard and make it look like you push mowed it and then you can take it straight to the field and cut two foot tall hay down. (take the dividing board off when you are just trying to cut grass with it. one bolt) When you have one that will cut like that, that makes it very versatile. I have been using this mower around here for at least a weekand I will feel very well about getting this mower to the new owner and knowing that they got a good mower. Running wide open, you can barely hear it run and you can travel along cutting hay pretty fast. You have to do nothing but hook it up. Which by the way is very simple. I can back up to this mower, hook it up, and be mowing in less than five minutes, and you can too. If you come to pick up your mower and you would like, I can hook it up once so you can get the idea of how to do it. (weather permitting) If I am shipping it to you, feel free to call me after the sale if needed, and I will walk you through hooking it up. It is very simple. I can't brag on this machine enough and I only hope it brings what it should.

Ifneeded, I will give you a complete demonstration on how to hook up and operate this mowerwhen you pick it up.If it is not what I said, then you don't have to take it! This is a good machine and is going to make someone a good mower.

I don't have 30 or 40 items for sale at all times, but that is because I go through each machine and use itlong enough that I feel comfortable standing behind it. THIS THING IS GUARANTEED TO WORK AS I SAY IT DOES ORI WILL BUY IT BACK!

  • John Deere 350
  • Category 1 or 2
  • Balanced head mower
  • 7' bar
  • Perfect sickle
  • New guards
  • Perfect pto shaft and bearings
  • New belt
  • Good and tight all over
  • Good andquiet running machine

    You can spend a lot of money real fast if you buy a machine that needs some work. I know that I'm not the only one that has ever sold one of these before but I can guarantee you that I have used the machine around my farm, usually for several weeks. I have a 35 acre farm, and I keep at least 5 acres of it mowed down real nice through the Spring, Summer, and Fall, and I mow it ALL with the mowers that I sell. I sell a few of these exact same mowers throughout the year and I kind of know what to look for. Even if you don't buy a mower from me, you should keep this information in the back of your head when you go to look at one. I will keep adding information about different mowers as well in case I don't happen to be selling one right now that's similar to one that you're looking at elsewhere. I sell a lot of sickle mowers.

    NEW HOLLAND 450 AND 451 / 455AND 456

    1. Look at the head assembly on these mowers. They are possibly the best mower that you can buy but if those bearings are worn out or there is a cast iron piece broken, you might really be in for some sticker shock when you go to fix it.
    2. That hoop on the front has to be there. That raises and lowers the sickle when you raise and lower your 3-point. It is also the stabilizing system. (again, very expensive if it is broken and I have not figured out a way to make it work well without it.
    3. Look at the bolt that is loosened to adjust the angle of your guards. It is broken quite often and takes about an hour to fix once you figure out how to do it.
    4. Take a good look at picture# 6. You will see a bracket with a pulley bolted to it and a cable running around the pulley. This bracket has been broken off or is almost broken off, on 50% of the mowers that I buy, as well as the bracket shown at the top center of the picture that has the large spring attached to it. There are good ways to fix this problem, but most are fixed in an extreme hurry and will break again really soon.
    5. As with any balanced head mower, the belt lasts almost for ever but is expensive if it broken or missing.
    6. That is a special bolt that holds the sickle in the mower. DO NOT use anything else. Go to your Ford dealer and get one if yours is worn or it is missing. If you are in question, the head of the bolt, as well as the nut are tapered like a lug nut for a wheel. This keeps the plates from getting worn out from the fast movement.

    JOHN DEERE 350 AND 450

    1. For example, that pin that goes through the end of your sickle is about $60.00. I try to see that this is not worn badly.
    2. You can make something, but if it has the originaltriangular shaped attachment for your draw bar, that's nice.This is what raisesyour bar when you lift your mower and keeps the ride height of the frame correct when you lower it.
    3. That belt will last a long time but it is expensive, (about $100.00),so make sure to take that into account if it is broken.
    4. Look for cracks in the frame where your lift arms pick up the machine. (This is not a deal breaker if you have access to someone thathas a weldingand fabrication shop)
    5. Try to turn the handlethat is used toadjust the angle of the guards up and down. This is almost always frozen in place. Again, not a deal breaker because you can usually adjust your top link enough to make it work, and honestly it is usually frozenpretty close to where you want it to be anyway.

    FORD 501

    1. Do not engage the pto with the bar up 90 degrees to the ground. You will then learn how to change the pitman arm.
    2. Speaking of the pitman arm, there is a spring in the end of the pitman at the sickle end. THIS HAS TO BE THERE. This keeps proper tension on the ball that your pitman arm is attatched to. (I usually replace this spring when I go through one of these)
    3. There arefour sizes of drive pulleys that you can find on these mowers. They are 9", 10 1/2", 12", and 14 1/2"diameter. Any of themwill spin this mower more than fast enough to cut with. The only thing being, if you have a tractor that you want to run at a little lower rpm, (diesel), you might like thelarger pulleys better.
    4. You don't need all of the crazy arms that this thing came with. They are simply stabilizer arms that are seemingly impossible to hook up. I re-drill the mounting pins, moving them out 3/8 of an inch. This allows you to do away with these arms, hook your category 1 lift arms to it, and also slide a 1/4" thick stabilizer bar on it also. (the kind that hooks up under the axle of your tractor). What this has also done is allowed for a category 2 tractor to be used with it, and when you hook your category 2 tractor to it, there is usually no need to use a stabilizer bar because the pins are close enough together that it does not walk much.
    5. No, the bracket inpicture# 10 (whenyou are looking atone of my 501 listings)is not all that complicated, but I did come up with that for hooking up therod that controls the lifting of your bar when you raise your lift arms. Without this hooked up, the end of your bar will just lay on the ground. This bracket can be used on basically any tractor. (much easier than theGEOMETRIC NIGHTMARE that comes with it from the factory.) (I have some of those lying around if you feel that you haven't cussed enough this year, and you want to usethe original oneinstead.)
    6. As far as the top link goes, take it off and throw it in the scrap pile. It is non-adjustable and you have to adjust the mower itself by looseningthree carraige boltsand pivoting the bar. Use your adjustable top link like you would on any other implement.If you want the original one, I have some of those too.
    7. You need to grab the sickle by the end, while it is hooked to the tractor, and work it front to back. It should not move very much at all. This is not a deal breaker if it does, but the bushings are probably froze up and the bolts will need cut out and replaced.
    8. You don't have to buy a mower from me,but at least use a little of this information when you go to look at one.

    All bearings, belts, etc., on allof my machines,have been checked and replaced or adjusted as needed.All grease zerks take grease, andeach machinehas been greased and is ready to hook up and go, unless otherwise stated.

    Thanks, in advance.

    • Please check out the other machinery thatI have on here.
    • You are welcome to give me a call any day of the week. (9-5 is best)
    • Alan, 660-909-6846

    If you are picking up this item, PayPal is always accepted, but I would prefer ifyou wouldpay by cash or cashier's check when you get here to avoid PayPal fees. (either way is fine)Delivery is also available at $2.00/mile, paid one way. (50 miles fromme to you=50 miles X $2.00 = $100.00) Sorry for the first grade math explanation but this should takecare ofany misunderstanding as to what is meant by "paid one way." If you buy more than one item and I can get them all on one load, I will make you a really great deal on the shipping for each additional item. SEE LONGER DISTANCE SHIPPING BELOW.

    Local pick-up is always free.I have a loader on hand.

    I will ship this machine anywhere in the 48 lower United States for $249.00. This includes the cost of the skid and the two to four 1000 lb. ratchet straps that I use to attatch it to the skid. (these are obviously yours upon arrival.) This is usually what it costs me and I think that is about as fair as I can be. Please allow up to5 businessdays to get it on the truck.

    Please email me for a price on International shipping.


    • What isthe exact address that you need it shipped to?
    • What is your daytime phone number? The shipper will need this to contact you.
    • Do you need a lift gate, or do you have a dock or a loader of some kind to get it unloaded? (the cost for a lift gate is $50.00 extra).

    I am very sorry to have to include this, but after answering these questions at least twice a day, every day, I have decided to go ahead and answer them all in advance, right now. If asked again, I will assume you are just kidding, since I have clearly stated the answer to it below.

    1. "Will you combined shipping for me if I buy more stuff?" ----- Yes, as stated above in every listing, although you must request a total before paying. If it does not qualify for combined shipping, it will say so.
    2. "Will you end this sale early?" ----- No, I will never end an sale early unless their is something misrepresented in the listing.
    3. "What is your Buy It Now price?" ----- I almost never do Buy It Now sales. If it doesn't say "Buy It Now" at the top of the listing, (from any seller), there is no Buy It Now price, so please don't ask.
    4. "What will you take for this thing right now?" ----- I almost never put a reserve on anything, so I will take whatever it brings. (Please refer to rule 2. (very similar question))
    5. #1 QUESTION OF ALL TIME "What do you want for this thing?" ----- It is almost always an sale style listing, with . I want absolutely, as much as it will bring, when the time runs out.

    Thank you for taking the time to read this. I have beenanswering these questionsevery day... and now I'm not. I will also not accept a return on this sale unless it is misrepresented. Everything in this listing has been described exactly.

    Buy Now


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